Ethiopia, Destination For The Bold

An old saying that the greatest achievements were at first only
dreams could well apply to Ethiopia. Some Ethiopians are
dreaming big. Our correspondent visited the Ethiopian town of
Harar and tells the story of dreamers who see adventure,
excitement, and a possible tourist bonanza where others see only
rocks and bones.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

09 December 2009 | Peter Heinlein (VOA)

    An old saying that the greatest
    achievements were at first only
    dreams could well apply to Ethiopia.
    Some Ethiopians are dreaming big.
    Our correspondent visited the
    Ethiopian town of Harar and tells the
    story of dreamers who see
    adventure, excitement, and a
    possible tourist bonanza where
    others see only rocks and bones.
Harar, Ethiopia

Harar is considered Islam's fourth holiest city. It boasts 82 mosques
and more than 100 shrines. Its medieval Old Town has been recognized
by UNESCO as unique in East Africa.

The surrounding region is turning out to be a treasure trove for
archeologists, anthropologists and speleologists, or cave explorers.  It is
not far from where remains of the oldest known human ancestors, Luci
and Ardi were found, shedding light on the origins of humanity.

But as a tourist destination, these sites are practically off the map. Harar
is a day's drive east of Addis Ababa so getting there can be an
adventure in itself.

That hasn't stopped dreamers, like Italian scholar Marco Vigano, from
looking past the obstacles to the potential.

    "It's the cradle of humanity," said
    Marco Vigano. "If we don't show
    the people more than Lucy.  It's the
    bits that come after Lucy that
    interest us now, and there is so
    much to be discovered."

    Discoveries are a regular occurrence
    here. A few kilometers outside
    Harar, a guide leads visitors up a
    mountainside to a cave chiseled by
    the Harla people who lived here for
    centuries.  He splashes water on the
outside wall, and it seems to come alive, revealing ancient secrets.

    "The people were living with goats
    and cows.  Yes, you can see horns."

    These 500 to 1000-year-old cave
    paintings are young compared to the
    skeleton of Ardi, an upright hominid
    more than 4 million-years-old -
    discovered in Ethiopia's Great Rift
    Valley . The area is a two-day drive
    from Addis without much in the
    way of inns or guest houses.

    Also a nearby volcano erupted four
years ago, ripping open a crack in the Great Rift Valley. Scientists say
it's getting wider every year and the area could eventually become a
new ocean.

    Professor Ahmed Zekaria, a cultural
    anthropologist at Addis Ababa
    University, says Ethiopia still holds
    many secrets.

    "The Rift Valley gives you a
    scenario of human evolution," said
    Ahmed Zekaria. "Paleontologists are
    telling us every season they're
    coming with stones and bones that
    catapult us back into the nebulous
    past."

    Scientists say Ethiopia is a work in
progress, anthropologically and geologically. If they are right about that
new crack in the earth, this landlocked country could become a beach
resort within, say, a few hundred thousand years.

                                        
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